Enigma’s Odyssey, 2023
In January 2023, I left on an eight-and-a-half month cycling odyssey across the US on my bike, Enigma.
I pedaled south out of San Francisco, rode down the Pacific Coast, and cut across the mountains into the deserts of southeastern California. In the desert I spent two months doing short trips and camping in and around Anza Borrego State Park.
In late spring I continued east toward Tucson, Arizona, where I took the Chihuahuan Connector to the southern terminus of the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route in Antelope Wells, New Mexico. Then I pedaled north on the Great Divide to Calgary, Canada.
Read or listen:
Gear List for Enigma’s Odyssey
Dayfire Podcast on solo cycling The Great Divide
One special moment: When my tent got eaten in the night by packrats!
Through-hiking The Florida Trail, 2022
In winter of 2022, I through-hiked 1107 miles across Florida’s swamps, prairies, forests, and towns. This was a magical journey. The Florida Trail is one of the least-known long distance hiking trails in the US. I think it’s also one of the best!
One special moment: When a man named Doug hollared at me outside my tent until I came out and he gave me a sandwich.
Biking 1000 Miles to the Spring Equinox, 2021
In 2021, with the pandemic still raging, I went on a stationary bike ride across time and space to the Spring Equinox.
One special moment: Hauling my bike to the ocean and stationary riding toward the waves.
Tiny Trips to The Area Of Intrigue,
2020-2021
During the pandemic, I mapped out a ten mile radius around my house and called it “The Area of Intrigue.” I had tons of fun bikepacking around this area close to home.
One special moment: Taking my coworkers on their first bikepacking trip to one of our colleague’s backyards.
Read more:
Cycling Eastern Canada and the US,
2019
A strange and winding journey across Eastern Canada and the US. You can read the story: In Search of the Wild Reindeer.
One special moment: Pulling a live maggot out of my arm.
Read more:
Section hiking the Appalachian Trail,
2014-Present
I had just finished a fermentation residency in Tennessee, and had about five weeks before my next job started in Massachusetts. I remembered that the Appalachian Trail ran south to north between Georgia and Massachusetts. I figured if I hitch hiked due east from central Tennessee, I’d eventually just “hit the trail” and could walk north toward Massachusetts from there. Interestingly, this plan actually worked.
I hiked about 500 miles before my parents charitably picked me up in their van and drove me the rest of the way to work. Ever since then, I’ve been doing a few hundred miles here and there, and hope to eventually complete the whole trail.
One special moment: After my toenails turned black and fell off, I cut holes in the edges of my hiking boots and never had foot issues again.
Cycling around Costa Rica,
2013
My then-partner Scott, our friend Simon, and I, rode around Costa Rica to visit farms, learn about sustainable agriculture, and source plant genetic material for a seed lending library.
One special moment: Staying at a nudist colony for a night because it was cheaper than the regular hotel.
Cycling across Ecuador,
2010-2011
My then-partner Scott and I left from Bogotá and biked in the vague direction of Ecuador. We printed out maps at internet cafes along the way. We made it all the way to Volcán Chimborazo, the highest mountain in Ecuador.
One special moment: When a woman carrying a bag of live guinea pigs invited us to camp in her yard.
Read More:
Buy Less, Bike More: Packing Hacks For An Inexpensive Bike Tour
Cycling across Colombia,
2010
I was living in a garden shed in Bogotá, Colombia, and decided to go for a bike ride to Venezuela. I posted a message on an online Couchsurfing forum, asking if anyone wanted to join me. I wrote that anyone who wanted to come could meet me later that week at an acoustic rock concert in the city.
I went to the concert venue and waited in line. A man wearing brightly colored pants walked up to me and asked if I was Laura. He’d never been on a bike trip before and didn’t have a bike. We figured it all out left a few weeks later. Yes, we made it to Venezuela!
One special moment: When we accidentally entered the final stage of a bike race, and everybody cheered for us. The first and last time I’ve ever won a bike race!
Read More:
Buy Less, Bike More: Packing Hacks for an Inexpensive Bike Tour
Guiding Volcano Hikes in Nicaragua,
2009
While we were hitchhiking across Latin America, my then-partner Scott and I stopped in León, Nicaragua for four months, and became trekking guides for a nonprofit called Quetzaltrekkers. We each led dozens of multi-day treks across some of Nicaragua’s most beautiful volcanos. All proceeds went to local schools.
One special moment: Cooking guests’ dinner each night over a fire.
Hitchhiking Mexico to Panama,
2009-2010
I was working on a chainsaw crew for the Southwest Conservation Corps in Durango, Colorado. One night I met a cute guy at a party and asked if he wanted to hitchhike across Mexico. A couple months later, we left together. We ended up hitching across Mexico, all the way to Panama.
One special moment: After Scott’s backpack was stolen in Tabasco, a kind stranger gave him an old black briefcase. Scott continued hitchhiking with nothing but that briefcase. It was an odd sight.
Cycling Anchorage to San Francisco,
2008
When I was 23 I flew one-way to Anchorage, Alaska, with my bike and camping gear. I built my bike in the airport, pedaled out, and rode the next thirty-five hundred miles to San Francisco. It took about three-and-a-half months.
One special moment: Knowing I’d never be able to cross the Rockies, and then looking at the map and realizing I’d already crossed them.
Read More:
Cycling around Iceland, 2007
I’d just finished college and was working at a nightclub in the city. It wasn’t a nice place. One day after work, I went home, opened my laptop, and looked for cheap flights to anywhere. The next weekend I flew to Iceland with my camping gear and bicycle. I ended up biking nearly a thousand miles around the whole island. It was the first time I’d ever pedaled more than 20 miles at a time.
One special moment: Pedaling at midnight under Iceland’s arctic sun, ocean to my right and glaciers to my left. A boundless joy.
Read more:
How I Started Long Distance Adventure Cycling
Solo Cycling Iceland: My First Bike Tour
Solo Cycling Iceland: Inside the Story of Solitude
Solo Cycling Iceland: Lessons Learned From the Bleak and the Beautiful
Hitchhiking the US and Mexico,
2003-2004
When I was eighteen I took a Greyhound to Tucson, Arizona. I walked to the edge of the city, stuck out my thumb, and hitch hiked away. I spent the next year thumbing rides around the US and Mexico.
One special moment: Dancing in the rain with a Mexican shoe shiner I met in the town square in Mazatlán.